By Nick Way
Redfish are probably one of the most readily available and accessible saltwater species to target with a fly rod in the southeast. Fall is a great time to chase them whether the extreme high and low tides of the Lowcountry marshes, big bulls in Lousiana, the Texas coast, or tailers on a shoal grass flat in Florida these two patterns are a must have and just need to be tweaked in size, weight, and color to suit any situation.
Simple Slider
Everyone needs a good slider pattern in their redfish box. I will have a bunch of these in different colors and weights. Depending on how you strip the fly it could suggest a baitfish or a shrimp. It doesn’t look like anything specific but neither do most redfish flies that are effective. Most redfish flies all use similar materials and have a similar look, a guide buddy of mine once put it “Redfish flies are like Mexican food, it’s the same 3 ingredients repackaged a different way”. So why not just tie a bunch of the same thing is my mindset and I want them simple. This fly uses 2 brushes, won’t foul and moves even when you’re not moving it. Everything I want in a redfish fly and quick to tie. Works great in almost any situation redfish can be sightfished in just adjust weight and color accordingly.
Hook: Mustad J60AP #4
Eyes: X-Sm Lead
Thread: 140 Denier Danville Flymaster Brown
Tail: 3” Polar Fiber Brush Purple
Body: 1” Lively Legs Crustacean Brush Black
Weedgaurd: 16lb Mason Hard Mono
Start your thread about 1/8” from the bend of the jig hook and tie in your eyes. I like to do 5-10 wraps in one direction then twice as many to straighten them out. Continue you with figure 8 wraps then do helicopter wraps around the base of the eyes to secure them.
Bring your thread back so it hangs even with the point of the hook, clip off a 2” section of polar fiber brush. Whether than palmering the brush we will tie this piece in as we would a clump of polar fiber. Using the brush has flash mixed in already, allows for less bulk in the fly, and the wire helps prevent fouling. Secure the piece of burhs then tie in the lively legs brush.
Palmer the livlely legs to just behind the eyes and tie off. Trim the bottom flat tight to the shank of the hook and at a 45 degree angle on the sides. This will help the fly to ride hook point up.
For the weed guard straighten a 3-4” section of mono by pulling tight and running your fingers back on forth on it. The heat will take the memory out of the mono. Fold it in half and put a crimp where it is folded over.
Slide over the shank of the hook right in front of the eyes and take 5 or so wraps from behind to in fornt of the mono then the same from front to back. Pull up tight and trim to length. Whipfinish and apply head cement of choice.
Gurgler
Most anglers would think that throwing a floating fly to tailing fish doesn’t make much sense but in thick shoal grass where a fly may not get in front of the fish or on a floodtide flat where redfish are also slurpling crabs and grasshoppers off the surface this is my go to. Not only are the bites incredible but a big plus for me is you always know where your fly is in relation to the fish. Don’t pop the fly but rather drag it so it just pushes a wake. Redfish’s mouths aren’t designed to eat off the surface so slowing it down helps them get the fly in their mouth and in my experience moving it too fast can freak the fish out.
Hook: Mustad C68SAP #2
Eyes: Medium Beachain
Thread: 140 Denier Danville Flymaster Brown
Tail/Body: 2” Mimic Feather Brush Camel Black
Foam: Sightcast Topwater Fly Foam Strip Tan/Orange
Weedgaurd: 20lb Mason Hard Mono
Start your thread ¼” from the eye of the hook and secure bead chain eyes.
Bring your thread back to the bend of the hook and tie in mimic brush, palmer brush forward to just behind the beadchain. Trim brush flat on top and round off the bottom leaving a short tapered tail.
Tie off brush and tie in foam strip right behind the beadchain. Trim foam to desired shape and size. The bring thread to the eye of the hook to tie in your weedgaurd. Clip off a 2” piece of straightened mono and use a pair of needles nose fliers to bend and flatten a small section at the tip. Tie in the mono with the flattened end and take a dozen or so wraps behind the mono to keep it standing up. Trim to length, whip finish and apply head cement.
